Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture 2024: Has Simone Rocha Set New Standards for Femininity?

As part of the Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris on January 24, 2024, following in the footsteps of Chitose Abe-Sacai, Glenn Martens – Diesel and Y/Project, Olivier Rousteing – Balmain, veteran Haider Ackermann, and most recently Julien Dosenna – Rabanne, Simone Rocha is the next designer chosen to delve into the legacy of the renowned fashion house Jean Paul Gaultier, as the designer behind the Haute Couture 2024 show this time.

Simone Rocha’s first Haute Couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier is a symphony of contrasts, a ballet between fragility and strength. The runway showcased 36 designs, delicately combining Rocha’s unique style with the treasure trove established by Jean Paul Gaultier. As a tradition every year, each season sees a different designer with a unique spirit, yet somehow connected to the free-spirited land of Jean Paul Gaultier, always bringing excitement to fashion enthusiasts and leaving a profound impression on the audience. This time is no exception, as the audience witnesses Rocha expressing herself, blending into the spirit of Jean Paul Gaultier but not dissolving into it, with a perspective full of conviction and a pure, unfettered femininity.

Renowned for unique approaches to the image of women in the modern era, with an appearance that is gentle yet strong-willed, based on traditional images but breaking free from outdated, rigid rules often placed on women’s shoulders, and considering that as the “standard” of beauty, there is no definition of “standards” in Simone Rocha’s view, as well as in Jean Paul Gaultier’s, and that is a common voice, where the collaboration of two free realms comes together, creating new images at JPG as well as the most important milestone in Simone Rocha’s career.

Let’s delve deeper into the subtle points of the collection, while exploring how the female designer seamlessly integrates her perspective and design thinking with the iconic codes of Jean Paul Gaultier.

The exploration into the true beauty of women by Rocha is truly unique, where femininity, full of strength, becomes a significant milestone of this collection. The runway seems to recreate a celebration of the body’s beauty, welcoming everyone, from slender figures to fuller bodies, highlighting that the beauty of a woman in the land of Jean Paul Gaultier cannot be judged by any standard.

Transparent dresses adorned with intricately embroidered symbols, symbolizing femininity and power combined with avant-garde elements, such as sparkling stone straps or corsets with Jean Paul Gaultier’s characteristic cone-shaped bust cups. Rocha cleverly plays with traditional images and contemporary perspectives, creating garments that tell a story about the sophistication of modern women’s lives. Always Simone Rocha with strong, feminine, subtly anti-traditional styles, Rocha’s Haute Couture project for Jean Paul Gaultier not only displays decorative details but also reveals deep, subtle highlights.

The collection reflects Rocha’s exploration of space, blending youthfulness with the dark, Gothic style. Cheers and praise echoing from the audience at the end of the show are evidence of the success in the way Rocha chooses to bring various emotions to viewers through her striking designs.

With a unique color palette and an absolute commitment to craftsmanship, the collection is presented in a rich and diverse color scheme, from gentle tones like gold and pink on chiffon to the dark, layered meaning of black outfits. Metal-applied vests, crystal-studded bodices, and cone-shaped bust corsets add a new layer of complexity and affirm Rocha’s skilled craftsmanship. The puffed sleeves in blue and deep green create a unique feature, while hair strands used as accessories like model earrings delicately emphasize the belief in femininity.

As a Jean Paul Gaultier show, having a unique vision is not enough, there must be a subtle harmony with the brand, and the inspiration from JPG’s treasure trove is something that not only Rocha but anyone would want to delve into. Drawing inspiration directly from the memorable “Tatouage” collection of 1994 and the “Age of Enlightenment” Spring 1998 collection adds depth and meaning to the collection. By experimenting with costumes from the past, Rocha imagines new transformations, new possibilities, adjusts proportions, and tests complex tailoring techniques. The result is a smooth harmony between her style and Jean Paul Gaultier’s premium focus on bold body shapes.

Nods to Jean Paul Gaultier’s classic elements, including Breton stripes and sailor hats, seamlessly blend with Rocha’s Irish heritage influences. The Irish designer delves into her homeland’s culture, discovering traditional Irish crochet outfits in Gaultier’s archives and reintroducing them in her new collection for Jean Paul Gaultier. Feather-trimmed earrings and feather-embellished shoes with pearls demonstrate a harmonious blend of two different perspectives but converging on one point in design.

The collaboration between Simone Rocha and Jean Paul Gaultier represents a harmonious meeting of two creative entities. The collection is evidence of Rocha’s ability to reimagine Gaultier’s legacy, blending it with her unique perspective on femininity. The show, with its combination of fragility and strength, honors the emotionally charged power and ever-changing nature of fashion. Rocha’s debut at Gaultier’s first Haute Couture show not only solidifies her position as a significant force in the fashion industry but also serves as a reminder that clothing is not just inert garments; they also contain stories that take us on emotional journeys.