5 Highlights at Paris Couture Week 2024: Schiaparelli, Maison Margiela, Rahul Mishra…

The recent collections showcased at Paris Couture Week 2024 with stimulating presentations, a mix of outstanding designs with a touch of real drama, have left a memorable impression on fashion enthusiasts at the beginning of the year.

Summary:

• “Mother and Child” motif at Schiaparelli
• Blooming flowers at Giambattista Valli
• A harmonious collaboration between Simone Rocha and Jean Paul Gaultier
• Embroidery craftsmanship reaching new heights at Rahul Mishra
• John Galliano brings drama to Maison Margiela

Viral videos on social media from the front row at the Schiaparelli show show celebrities like Zendaya, Hunter Schafer, and Jennifer Lopez wearing standout creations from the fashion house’s Spring 2024 collection, featuring sculptural gold jewelry and black and white patterned clothing.

In addition, we also witnessed supermodel Naomi Campbell looking “radiant” and elegant at Alaïa, Kylie Jenner and Kelly Rutherford from Gossip Girl accompanying Jean Paul Gaultier, and British model Rosie Huntington-Whitely shining at Valentino.

While the off-runway media moments are quite enticing, let’s now focus on the dramatic Haute Couture collections of this season.

“Mother and Child” motif at Schiaparelli

The robot baby carried by models on the Schiaparelli runway certainly caught attention, with its body made of electronic components such as batteries and wires. Its accompanying pieces showcased on the runway included a motherboard, made from computer parts, disks, phones, and various other sparkling items alongside intricately embedded gemstones. According to designer Daniel Roseberry, the “mother and child” motif is a commentary on the meeting of the future and the past, designed to evoke emotions about how our world is rapidly changing.

Blooming flowers at Giambattista Valli

Spring flowers may seem like a “cliché,” but Giambattista Valli added his own interesting twist to the latest collection. Large flowers were attached to models’ ponytail hairstyles, layered behind them as they walked in wide coats and feathered capes. These silhouettes evoke memories of 18th-century French-style coats, with short dresses featuring side fabric draping and 19th-century tiered dresses with round backs, combined with flowers to create a luxurious, royal-inspired space.

A harmonious collaboration between Simone Rocha and Jean Paul Gaultier

Since taking a hiatus from the runway in 2020, Jean Paul Gaultier has invited other designers for collaborations with his eponymous label each season, and this time it was Irish-born Chinese designer Simone Rocha – behind trends like “teardrops” or “bow tears” in 2023. She was surprised and excited to elevate her signature bows or pearls and her passion for delicate fabrics. This collection showcases Rocha’s intricate fabric handling and aesthetic eye for timeless designs.

Embroidery craftsmanship reaching new heights at Rahul Mishra

Indian fashion designer Rahul Mishra is famous for applying complex embroidery techniques to honor India’s traditional craftsmanship and empower local artisans. For this collection, he adopted a “darker” design approach, with garments featuring embroidered hoops with butterfly and dragonfly motifs. These hoops also serve as frame screens for the models, adding a stage-like element to the show.

John Galliano brings drama to Maison Margiela

From a creatively designed invitation—including a white card accompanied by a subway ticket in Paris to the event venue with dim, eerie lighting, under the Pont Alexandre III bridge and the legendary Café Mouché—John Galliano’s vision for Maison Margiela’s Spring 2024 is dark, mysterious, and dramatic. Models walked among guests, occasionally interacting with them, wearing thin garments, patchwork outfits, and tailored vests combining Galliano’s style sophistication and Margiela’s minimalist design rules. There is no doubt that this is a show worthy of entering fashion history.