Ferragamo Fall 2024 – Military Green, The Roaring Twenties, and Maximilian Davis’s Spectacular Creativity
May
Immerse yourself in the sense of freedom and liberation in the “Golden Age” – the 1920s, drawing on the timeless heritage of Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis uses his creative genius to rewrite the illustrious history of fashion over 100 years ago.
Since ascending to the new “king” ruling over Ferragamo’s long-standing legacy, with passion and talent, Maximilian Davis has quickly gained recognition in the fashion world. The young designer focused on creating unforgettable “masterpieces,” establishing the reputation of the elegant Italian fashion house. Maximilian helped Ferragamo expand its brand identity with a completely new image, far beyond shoes and handbags – the foundation laid by predecessors. After four runway shows, at the Fall/Winter 2024 show, the talented creative director continued this mission, affirming the brand’s identity by rewriting classic pieces with a new DNA.
While recent fashion weeks have seen other designers overly “sensitive” to emerging trends “quick to wither,” Maximilian Davis takes Ferragamo back to the past, beyond the common reference materials from the 60s to the 90s, to immerse in the roaring skies of the tumultuous 1920s. In Europe, the 1920s is known as the “Golden Age” due to the economic boom after World War I. The post-war prosperity marked a milestone for artists to “break free,” experiment with innovations and creativity, while propelling a magnificent artistic revolution. Thus, the 20s, or the Roaring Twenties, were an era of creativity, breakthroughs, unlimited experimentation, liberation, and profound self-expression.
Maximilian Davis explores the essence of this era, combining it with his own perspective and creative lens, along with Ferragamo’s rich heritage, to create one of the most outstanding Fall/Winter 2024 collections during Milan Fashion Week, simultaneously building a wardrobe that is both nostalgic and forward-looking. Ferragamo Fall 2024 is a contemporary homage to the liberated essence of the era, characterized by raised seams, soft fabrics, lowered waistlines, and generous cuts – details that defined the liberated era a century ago. Davis vividly portrays this inspiration in new silhouettes, emphasizing the use of 1920s clothing as a means to celebrate freedom. “The 1920s used clothing as a way to celebrate freedom. And that expression of freedom is something that impressed me, my heritage, and Ferragamo.”
The breath of freedom opened the show, interpreted in subdued olive green, dyed on various silhouettes in cashmere wool. The “military green” of the liberation season in Ferragamo Fall 2024 appears in boxy-shaped coats, wide shoulders, cut short with oversized padded belts; along with a shirt and leather skirt, similarly belted; a blazer and short dress ensemble, a knitted dress with thigh-high boots resembling leggings; and some soft leather button-up shirts. Complemented by monochrome ensembles with accents from leather tote bags, scarves, belts, and matching leather gloves. The military green alongside Maximilian’s sharpened silhouettes make viewers clearly perceive the inspiration from Military Fashion, but in an elegant, sophisticated, gentle, modern yet still inherently powerful manner.
The wartime atmosphere in Ferragamo Fall 2024 becomes increasingly evident as Maximilian shifts the color palette to red, which has been endorsed throughout previous collections. The iconic red is dyed on a thigh-high slit dress meticulously trimmed and a sophisticated safari suit. Unlike the bold, vibrant nature of previous reds, Maximilian adjusts the intensity, from bright to subdued, reminiscent of the dusty battlefield smoke when mixed with classic brown hues. Interwoven with monochrome looks in the collection are unique color combinations, creating a color moodboard reminiscent of autumn leaves. For example, a green knitted dress with loose ties around the body, a chocolate brown jacket paired with a deep red pleated skirt sweeping the ground, and a green parka with a Tetris-style patterned belt. All attention is drawn to a black knitted dress and a sequined yellow dress depicting vague underwater scenes, complemented by the suggestive red filragamo but not overly intricate; and a long organza dress, flowing with the wind in muted colors, adorned with a waist belt.
Throughout 66 complete looks, the large, thick belts with square metal buckles emerge as a signature detail of the collection. The belts in Ferragamo Fall 2024 are not simply placed at the hips as tradition dictates but also elevated to the shoulders on a grandiose coat. Exploiting the spirit of determination during the turbulent era or the freedom when liberated, Maximilian reinterprets the wartime thriftiness in his vibrant fashion language. Hence, the parade of belted coats worn over clothes in the new show. “In the 1920s, in response to the world around them, people created secret hiding places for themselves. They tend to hide what they wear until they are safe.” This inspiration is directly manifested in the form of coat-like garments reminiscent of blankets, a Ferragamo trademark, which helps conceal the wearer’s inner layer. Ferragamo’s coats make the inner clothing more appealing. These are shiny leather layers, lacquered organdie dresses, sparkling sequin-adorned outfits, or meticulously sculpted pieces.
In a backstage conversation, Maximilian shared with the media that he also wanted to capture the celebratory mood of that era, seen in the elegant coats for men and intricately tailored dresses that appear as light as feathers. From there, viewers can see a stark contrast between the heavy architecture of outerwear and the delicate, fragile nature
