Sunnei Spring 2024: Come and Pass Judgment!
Jan
Never disappointing its supporters, Sunnei continues to make headlines as one of the most notable brands at Milan Fashion Week Spring 2024. Their show featured a unique viewing space—a “judicial trial,” where fashion is freely discussed, and looks are evaluated on a 10-point scale.
Although Milan Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2024 has concluded, the vibrant atmosphere lingers in the fashion realm. Particularly noteworthy were shows with distinctive spaces or presentation styles, such as AVAVAV and Sunnei—offering intriguing fashion experiences rarely found in any other brand. The perspective on fashion at Sunnei is always dissected and analyzed candidly yet humorously by Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina. They use fashion as a tool to comment on society, presenting sharp, straightforward, and sometimes biting viewpoints in a witty and charming manner. Rizzo states, “We want to turn contradictions into art,” and they accomplished this once again at the runway show introducing their new collection during Milan Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2024.
While Sunnei’s Autumn/Winter 2023 show immersed the fashion world in a lively space reminiscent of a rock ‘n roll concert, with models shining like acclaimed stars hailed by the audience, their Spring/Summer 2024 showcase took on the form of a “judicial trial.” After walking a considerable distance to an empty and desolate TV set, attendees had to find comfortable spots in the large theater stands, complete with numbered scorecards from 1 to 10. While waiting in the dim space, a voice suddenly exclaimed, “This time, you won’t just be passive spectators; you can interact with the show lively. Expressing your opinions is fantastic, so let’s do it right now!” Indeed, at the Sunnei Spring/Summer 2024 show, all audience members were free to comment, judge, and express their opinions through the 10-point scorecards as each look from the collection was presented. Loris Messina shared, “Everyone has a point of view, everyone is a judge—advocates, writers, critics, professional photographers—all opinions are valid, whether you have knowledge or passion for fashion or not.” Instead of remaining silent until the end of the show to comment or gossip, Sunnei’s audience was encouraged with messages like “Don’t overthink; judge!” and “Sunnei is an opportunity for us not to hate fashion.” The straightforward scoring boards were Sunnei’s response to critical gazes and outdated prejudices restraining the brand’s creative thinking and the fashion world in general. Before the audience’s scoring, Sunnei would demonstrate the magical and impressive beauty of creativity through 30 complete looks.
While each look received different scores, the overall average of the collection undoubtedly achieved an absolute rating. The show kicked off with a black leather motorcycle jacket, layered over a contrasting black and green stitched dress. It then transitioned to a breath of athleticism from dynamic outfits to the 90s, magnified in a contemporary and fresh way with distinct contrasts in style, color, and layering of individual items. The athletic spirit from the 90s was vividly portrayed on jersey designs, now replaced with stretchy materials and dyed in vibrant colors. Standout jerseys featured unique cuts, delivering a classic athletic aesthetic. To accentuate the contrast, Sunnei’s Spring/Summer 2024 presented combinations of body-hugging silhouettes with oversized designs, such as snug-fitting tops paired impressively with wide, baggy pants or maxi-cut dresses.
Intertwined with the presence of body-hugging materials, excellent elasticity was a highlight, stemming from new entries like cool cotton wide-sleeve shirts, breezy and light silk dresses. Rubber and denim materials in the collection were crafted from recycled materials, including excess fabric from bags. The visual effects on materials left a deep impression due to remarkable creativity. An example is a thin organza dress with a 3D-printed scan of a nude body, creating an incredibly fluid illusion. Meanwhile, intimate designs, such as briefs, long pants, and shirts, were scanned and printed on separate layers of organza, then stacked like a multi-layered mille-feuille pastry.
Despite the various scores assigned to each look, the average score for the collection was undoubtedly outstanding. From the first look to the final 30th look, Sunnei’s signature stripes were featured in various forms. Alongside this, the standout pattern Cuore Di Pietra—a heart with a traditional arrow—was prominently depicted on both clothing and accessories. Meanwhile, heart-shaped details adorned with crystals added an elegant, luxurious touch and earned absolute praise from the audience. Pixel-style printing brought a series of designs with a minimalist feel. Several perfect 10 scores were given for the incredibly massive and intricate intarsia tulip designs. Crafted by skilled artisans, these designs were combined on garments adorned with long flowing ruffles.
Illuminating the runway were unique experiments with exceptional shoe designs for both men and women, such as the introduction of the Cuoio line, featuring Mary Jane and Stringata styles. Additionally, Sunnei’s Spring 2024 showcased knitted shoes and the 1000chiodi shoes in flat and heeled versions. Handbags and small accessories served as reliable testimony to Sunnei’s joyful essence. The Twisted Labauletto and Crossed-zipped Lacubetto bags, with cross-zip closures made from interwoven shoelaces, leather strips, and rubber bands, were noteworthy. The Multitasking Bag, a versatile accessory that can transform to suit various occasions, stood out. The 30 looks by Sunnei were complemented by sparkling jewelry, especially crafted in line with the Cuore Di Pietra theme. Heart-shaped earrings resembling carved gemstones were made from copper but imitated the texture and shape of real stones. The colors and patterns of these earrings evoked specific gemstones like rose quartz, green jade, aquamarine, and gray agate. Sunnei’s sunglasses, Prototipo, stood out with transparent materials for the frames.
In the new era of fashion, fashion enthusiasts likely no longer care about judgmental glances or harsh, non-constructive comments. However, with a presentation format resembling a “trial” that welcomes all opinions from attendees, Sunnei aims to convey a meaningful and positive message. Ultimately, the goal of fashion is to serve humanity. While it may not be as easy as what the show’s press release shared, “When reasoned comments turn into a morally significant action, expressing and stating your opinions in front of others becomes a challenging task,” the Italian brand firmly believes that direct feedback from the audience will enrich their creative path over time. In truth, few brands are as bold as Sunnei in accepting direct and candid opinions from the audience.
