Dior Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear is Kim Jones’s homage to ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev and his wardrobe.
May
Explore the iconic “onstage” and “offstage” fashion styles of ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev through the photographs left behind by his uncle, Kim Jones orchestrates an unprecedented rendezvous between the menswear realm of the French fashion house Dior and the design language of Balletcore.
Since taking the helm of Dior’s menswear domain, Kim Jones has transformed it into a destination eagerly awaited by many, making Dior Menswear shows the most anticipated events during Paris Fashion Week. Through a lens of refinement, the elegant and sophisticated aesthetic that Kim Jones crafts for Dior’s gentlemen or “homme Dior” is evident. However, it’s not the conventional refinement, but a redefined elegance for the modern man, where gender and age norms are discarded, allowing for an expression of limitless individuality. This unique refinement has been a creative mantra for many of Kim Jones’s Dior Menswear collections, shaping the Fall/Winter 2024 collection as well.
Colin Jones, a Royal Ballet dancer turned professional photographer who covered hotspots during the 1960s, notably captured the life of Rudolf Nureyev, a ballet dancer and his friend. Kim Jones, his grandson, draws inspiration from Colin’s extraordinary story for Dior’s menswear collection this season.
The talented creative director of Dior Menswear territory begins planning a showcase honoring Rudolf Nureyev, specifically his iconic presence both on and off stage, drawing from a book of photographs left behind by his late uncle. Beyond the specialized costumes for legendary ballets, Rudolf’s everyday fashion style is likened to that of a true rockstar. The exceptional flexibility in the dancer’s style, rarely found in Kim Jones’s design language for his Dior gentlemen, sparks an unexpected liaison between Dior and Rudolf Nureyev, merging the sleek lines of French fashion and Balletcore, making Dior Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear a spectacular performance.
On the theater stage, Rudolf Nureyev’s name is synonymous with his dance partner Margot Fonteyn, whose fame traces back to their legendary performance of “Romeo and Juliet” in 1965. Margot Fonteyn, a renowned ballet dancer, was also a familiar client of the French fashion house, especially for its Haute Couture line. Dior once designed a dazzling beaded wrap dress named Debussy for Margot in 1950, captivating many, including Kim Jones. This distant relationship serves as one of the reasons for Rudolf’s presence on the mood board of the Dior Menswear Fall/Winter 2024 collection.
Rudolf’s ballet dancer title mostly revealed the essence and interpretation of Kim Jones’s latest menswear collection. However, Kim Jones surely enjoys teasing his admirers. Choosing his own path, Kim Jones not only explores contemporary fashion aesthetics inspired by ballet costumes but also delves into the everyday wardrobe, beyond the stage lights or the vibrant nightlife of ballet dancers, both Rudolf and Margot. Thus, the flexible transformation between Rudolf’s contrasting styles – the discipline and rigor of a ballet dancer combined with the opulence and splendor of his stage persona – prompts Kim Jones to create Dior’s first Haute Couture collection for men, integrating it into this Ready-To-Wear showcase. Here, the RTW designs reflect directly the dressing habits of ballet dancers in rehearsal rooms, while the high-craftsmanship masterpieces from the Haute Couture realm symbolize their lesser-known aspects in daily life. Moreover, the collection serves as a study of contrast, showcasing both the practicality of RTW and the opulence of Couture fashion.
The ballet and fashion world liaison begins with music. On a circular runway, Dior Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear commences with dramatic melodies by composers Max Richterm and Prokofiev for “Romeo and Juliet”. Then, it interprets the most familiar imagery of Rudolf on Kim Jones’s runway. The “king” of Dior’s menswear domain presents elegant ensembles, directly inspired and adapted from ballet costumes to rehearsal wear for ballet dancers. There are 40 complete, “clean and minimal” looks, focusing on the brand’s core silhouettes, including impeccably tailored suits, featuring repetitions of his signature Oblique pattern; wide-sleeved belted coats, leather jackets, and ample melton wool coats; tights, not to mention shorts and wide-legged shorts. Ribbed knit sweaters, oversized belted coats, twisted scarves, zippered knit jumpsuits,… evoke the familiar simplicity of Rudolf’s contemporary image.
For the viewers at the show, the initial sophistication and minimalism in the first half may have been deceiving. That subdued beginning was Kim Jones’s way of setting the stage, preparing the audience for the promising second half. It features 20 designs emerging from the glamorous Haute Couture world, premium craftsmanship pieces inspired by Rudolf Nureyev’s auction items at Christie’s in 1995, as well as Dior’s archives.
All these elevate men’s festive attire to new heights. The Haute Couture procession in the collection starts with a kimono set inspired by Nureyev, who was fond of collecting kaftans, kimonos, and precious scarves he liked to wear in private. It’s a handcrafted kimono from Japan, using traditional Hikihaku weaving techniques, silver-dyed, woven expansively with gemstone-like blocks of color, taking 10 craftsmen three months to complete. Next are paneled shirts, sheer shirts woven from luxurious beaded meshes. Viewers can’t miss the stone-encrusted details on suits like a sparkling belt-like waistband, reminiscent of Margot Fonteyn’s 1950 Debussy dress.
Diamonds from Dior’s high jewelry collection are also embedded beneath denim waistcoats, resembling a grand necklace. Underneath the gray waistcoat is a deep purple shirt with a pearl-encrusted collar trim. Throughout the collection, all eyes are drawn to two toile-de-jouy patterned designs embellished with luxurious silver. Alongside meticulous embellishments, Dior Menswear impresses with Kim Jones’s skillful color coordination. The creative director makes simple designs more unique with vibrant, lively splashes of color. The world of Dior Couture is condensed into Dior Fall/Winter 2024 Menswear, reflecting Rudolf’s luxury, beauty, sophistication, and extravagance.
Before turning attention to the sophistication of Haute Couture masterpieces, Dior’s latest menswear collection captivates viewers with a plethora of unique accessories. The accessories in the collection reflect the simplicity, rigor, and luxury of two contrasting yet intertwined worlds of a ballet dancer.
Firstly, the headpieces seen throughout the show, natural-wrapped headwear for male ballet dancers, made from luxurious felt strips, originally designed by Stephen Jones in 1999 for Dior women.
Most accessories feature neutral tones with neon accents on socks, coordinated with flat-soled shoes. The footwear in the collection combines the aesthetics of a ballet slipper with the traditional masculinity of formalwear, constructed with San Crispino leather contrasting with Mary-Jane sneakers made from polyester silk. Amid purity and luxury, the ballet-inspired shoes in the collection exude charm and grace while ensuring a sturdy silhouette for gentlemen.
